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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.